Te Araroa 2021/22 · Hiker Diary

Te Araroa 2021/22 by tokes

Finished 3,026 km 142 days

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Let’s Go!
Start · Thu 30 Sep · Cape Reinga Lighthouse
Resupply
Hard to believe that after over 18 months of thinking about this adventure, I finally made it to Cape Reinga. After Tania the amazing trail angel took my photo and left, I had the place to myself. Tears of joy and a few wahoos to the colliding oceans - let’s get started!

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First night
Thu 30 Sep · Day 1 · Twilight Beach Campsite
Tent · 12 km · km 12
So good to be on the trail, only 12km to the iconic (to Te Araroa folk at least) campsite. Thought I was going to be starting alone but Jenny & Gerard, a kiwi couple enjoying an early retirement together, arrived soon after. Good to have some company, was missing the family :-(

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Best lunch spot ever
Fri 1 Oct · Day 2 · Maunganui Bluff Reserve
Tent · 28 km · km 40
First decent days walk today, 28km. Weather cleared after last nights rain, stunning beaches and wild horse to greet me at the campground.

Feet good, feeling good.

Photo of the day was lunch time after setting up the tent to get some shade - not too hot but nowhere to hide from sun. Island is Matapia Island.

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Treating myself already :)
Sat 2 Oct · Day 3 · Hukatere Lodge
Cabin · 30 km · km 70
OMG good to find this spot and treat myself to a cabin. A couple of really cold nights and lots of condensation have made me appreciate the finer things :-) still love my tent, don’t worry, plenty of time to enjoy it later…

For others staying here, there’s good 4G reception and free wifi (although Gabrielle, the owner, would rather you ease up after 5:00pm when she pays more!)

When arriving, from the beach, look out for the tall blue sign on white posts - says 200m to campsite, more like 400m, just keep walking inland on the dirt road.

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Heaven’s opened
Sun 3 Oct · Day 4 · Ahipara Holiday Park
Tent · 31 km · km 101
Arrived just before the heavens opened, first from the sky then to the news that COVID-19 has breached the Auckland border - getting south is going to be interesting!

Ahipara campsite is really nice - lots of trees, big communal area, great showers and tonight we even have a fire!

Some hiker meal options and snacks available in shop store

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First Road Walk
Mon 4 Oct · Day 5 · Beachcomber Lodge, Kaitaia
Hotel/Motel · 15 km · km 116 · Resupply
This was called Main Street Lodge in the TA notes, not sure when it was renamed. When I arrived was being run by Wayfarer Hotel next door. $30 dorm room for myself :-)

First bit of road walking today between Ahipara and Kaitaia, actually quite busy but felt safe enough.

Met a friendly NOBO TA’er from last season - Kiri - who stopped to say hi. So nice to talk with someone who understands what the walk means even if everyone experiences it differently.

Logistics for the next few days a bit trickier and I am finding the TA official notes difficultly to follow, hard to know where people stay in the Raetea Forest. Sorted with a combo of the notes, Guthook comments and Facebook - someone should make a website for that, wait…

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Raetea Summit
Tue 5 Oct · Day 6
Tent · 24 km · km 140
Dropped off by Tania the amazing Trail Angel a few km out of Kaitaia and hot the gravel road and 4 wheel drive trails to get to the start of the Raetea Forest. All pretty easy waking then things got muddier and slower, but beautiful bush setting and so peaceful compare to anywhere I’ve been before, can hear nothing but the birds and beeze.

To those walking here from Kaitaia there are a few places to camp amongst the bushes but not super comfy and tight squeezes - that includes the 139km peak. The radio tower (km 142.7) much roomier and flatter although pretty exposed if it was blowing a gale, which right now its not!

There’s a place 1.5km from the Warner road turn off too - in hindsight would be better to stay here and go over in one go, staying at camp area on Makene Rd on the other side.

Final tip - take lots of water and fill up at the last stream near km 136.3.

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Not the only one…
Wed 6 Oct · Day 7 · Apple Dam Campsite
Tent · 36 km · km 176
Like walking under a waterfall
Thu 7 Oct · Day 8 · Puketi Campground
Tent · 25 km · km 201
First blisters!
Fri 8 – Sat 9 Oct · Day 9–10 · Kerikeri Holiday Park & Motels, Kerikeri
Cabin · 26 km · km 227 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Early return
Sun 10 Oct · Day 11 · Home, Wellington
Transit · km 227 · 2 off-trail days · Resupply
Southern terminus
Thu 14 Oct · Day 13 · Ngaio
Home · 25 km · km 252
Camp Elsdon
Fri 15 Oct · Day 14
Home · 25 km · km 277
Paekakariki Holiday Park
Sat 16 Oct · Day 15
Tent · 27 km · km 304
Ariki Lodge Motel
Sun 17 Oct · Day 16 · Waikanae
Hotel/Motel · 21 km · km 325 · Resupply
Wild
Mon 18 Oct · Day 17 · Parawai Lodge
Hut · 25 km · km 350
Lost!
Tue 19 Oct · Day 18 · Waitewaewae Hut
Hut · 11 km · km 361
Nichols Hut
Wed 20 Oct · Day 19
Hut · 8 km · km 369
Te Matawai Hut
Thu 21 Oct · Day 20
Hut · 13 km · km 382
Makahika Outdoor Pursuits Centre
Fri 22 Oct · Day 21
Tent · 18 km · km 400
Mangahao-Makahika Track
Sat 23 Oct · Day 22
Tent · 4 km · km 404
Tokomaru Shelter
Sun 24 Oct · Day 23
Hut · 15 km · km 419
Kahuterawa Reserve
Mon 25 Oct · Day 24
Tent · 26 km · km 445
Trail Angel Friends
Tue 26 Oct · Day 25 · Brian and Paula’s Place, Palmerston North
Trail Angel · 20 km · km 465 · Resupply
Mt Lees Reserve.
Wed 27 Oct · Day 26
Tent · 36 km · km 501
Koitiata Campground
Thu 28 Oct · Day 27
Tent · 41 km · km 542
College House Accommodation
Fri 29 – Sat 30 Oct · Day 28–29 · Whanganui
Backpackers · 34 km · km 576 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Forgotten World Adventures
Sun 31 Oct · Day 30 · Taumaranui
Hotel/Motel · 0 km · km 576 · Resupply
Forest Lodge & Motels
Mon 1 Nov · Day 31
Other · 27 km · km 603
42nd Traverse
Tue 2 Nov · Day 32
Tent · 25 km · km 628
Tongariro Holiday Park
Wed 3 Nov · Day 33
Cabin · 13 km · km 641
Mangatepopo Hut
Thu 4 Nov · Day 34
Hut · 24 km · km 665
Chateau Tongariro Hotel
Fri 5 Nov · Day 35
Hotel/Motel · 10 km · km 675
Mangahuia Campsite
Sat 6 Nov · Day 36
Hotel/Motel · 13 km · km 688
YHA National Park
Sun 7 Nov · Day 37 · National Park
Dormitory · 7 km · km 695 · Resupply
War Memorial
Mon 8 Nov · Day 38
Tent · 31 km · km 726
Whakahoro Camping Ground
Tue 9 Nov · Day 39
Hut · 25 km · km 751
John Coull Campsite
Wed 10 Nov · Day 40
Hut · 35 km · km 786
Tieke Kainga Campsite and Hut
Thu 11 Nov · Day 41
Hut · 31 km · km 817
Pipiriki Campground
Fri 12 Nov · Day 42
Cabin · 21 km · km 838
The Flying Fox, Retreat
Sat 13 Nov · Day 43
Tent · 31 km · km 869
Whanganui River TOP 10 Holiday Park
Sun 14 Nov · Day 44
Cabin · 38 km · km 907
Back Home!
Mon 15 Nov · Day 45
Home · 0 km · km 907 · 23 off-trail days
Kerikeri Holiday Park & Motels
Thu 9 Dec · Day 46 · Kerikeri
Tent · 0 km · km 907 · Resupply
Pickled Parrot
Fri 10 Dec · Day 47
Dormitory · 27 km · km 934
“The Hangar” at The Farm
Sat 11 Dec · Day 48
Tent · 35 km · km 969
Alex and Dave’s Place
Sun 12 Dec · Day 49
Tent · 20 km · km 989
Whananaki Holiday Park And Motels
Mon 13 Dec · Day 50
Tent · 31 km · km 1,020
Tutukaka Coast Motor Lodge
Tue 14 Dec · Day 51 · Ngunguru
Hotel/Motel · 26 km · km 1,046 · Resupply
Ocean Beach
Wed 15 Dec · Day 52
Tent · 28 km · km 1,074
Ruakaka Beach Holiday Park
Thu 16 Dec · Day 53
Tent · 28 km · km 1,102
Camp Waipu Cove
Fri 17 Dec · Day 54
Tent · 29 km · km 1,131
Riverside Holiday Park
Sat 18 Dec · Day 55 · Mangawhai
Tent · 29 km · km 1,160 · Resupply
Pakiri Beach Holiday Park
Sun 19 Dec · Day 56
Tent · 21 km · km 1,181
Dome Cafe
Mon 20 Dec · Day 57
Tent · 26 km · km 1,207
Puhoi
Tue 21 Dec · Day 58 · Pip’s Place
Trail Angel · 28 km · km 1,235 · Resupply
Stillwater - Fiona
Wed 22 Dec · Day 59
Trail Angel · 32 km · km 1,267
Quest Hotel
Thu 23 Dec · Day 60
Hotel/Motel · 30 km · km 1,297
Auckland Domestic Airport (& Home)
Fri 24 – Sun 26 Dec · Day 61–63
Home · 30 km · km 1,327 · 2 rest days
Zoe’s Place
Mon 27 Dec · Day 64 · Papakura
Tent · 23 km · km 1,350 · Resupply
Mercer Motel
Tue 28 Dec · Day 65
Tent · 43 km · km 1,393
Rangiriri - Cathie
Wed 29 Dec · Day 66
Tent · 28 km · km 1,421
Huntly - Lorayne & Gary
Thu 30 Dec · Day 67
Tent · 26 km · km 1,447
Hamilton City Holiday Park
Fri 31 Dec – Sat 1 Jan 2022 · Day 68–69 · Hamilton
Cabin · 36 km · km 1,483 · 1 rest day · Resupply
The Backyard Gastropub
Sun 2 Jan 2022 · Day 70
Tent · 15 km · km 1,498
Kaniwhaniwha Campsite
Mon 3 Jan 2022 · Day 71
Tent · 24 km · km 1,522
Kaimango Road - Casey & John
Tue 4 Jan 2022 · Day 72
Tent · 25 km · km 1,547
Waitomo Top 10 Holiday Park
Wed 5 Jan 2022 · Day 73
Tent · 32 km · km 1,579
Motel Te Kuiti
Thu 6 Jan 2022 · Day 74 · Te Kuiti
Hotel/Motel · 16 km · km 1,595 · Resupply
Mangaokewa Shelter
Fri 7 Jan 2022 · Day 75
Tent · 20 km · km 1,615
Ngaherenga campsite
Sat 8 Jan 2022 · Day 76
Tent · 37 km · km 1,652
Camp Epic
Sun 9 Jan 2022 · Day 77
Tent · 40 km · km 1,692
Ongarue
Mon 10 Jan 2022 · Day 78
Tent · 45 km · km 1,737
Forgotten World Adventures Motel
Tue 11 Jan 2022 · Day 79
Hotel/Motel · 25 km · km 1,762 · 5 off-trail days
Best Travel Buddy
Mon 17 Jan 2022 · Day 80 · Beachcomber Inn, Picton
Transit · km 1,762 · Resupply
Camp Bay Campsite
Tue 18 Jan 2022 · Day 81
Tent · 29 km · km 1,791
Cowshed Bay Camping Area
Wed 19 Jan 2022 · Day 82
Tent · 24 km · km 1,815
Davies Bay Campsite
Thu 20 Jan 2022 · Day 83
Tent · 18 km · km 1,833
Havelock Holiday Park
Fri 21 – Sat 22 Jan 2022 · Day 84–85 · Havelock North
Tent · 23 km · km 1,856 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Pelorus Bridge - Totara Flats
Sun 23 Jan 2022 · Day 86
Tent · 21 km · km 1,877
Middy Hut
Mon 24 Jan 2022 · Day 87
Hut · 28 km · km 1,905
Hacket Hut
Tue 25 Jan 2022 · Day 88
Hut · 19 km · km 1,924
Old Man Hut
Wed 26 Jan 2022 · Day 89
Hut · 18 km · km 1,942
Tarn Hut
Thu 27 Jan 2022 · Day 90
Hut · 14 km · km 1,956
Top Wairoa Hut
Fri 28 Jan 2022 · Day 91
Hut · 14 km · km 1,970
Porters Creek Hut
Sat 29 Jan 2022 · Day 92
Hut · 17 km · km 1,987
2000km!
Sun 30 – Mon 31 Jan 2022 · Day 93–94 · Paul’s Place, St Arnaud
Trail Angel · 31 km · km 2,018 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Upper Travers Hut
Tue 1 Feb 2022 · Day 95
Hut · 30 km · km 2,048
Blue Lake Hut
Wed 2 – Fri 4 Feb 2022 · Day 96–98
Hut · 15 km · km 2,063 · 2 rest days
Sabine Hut
Sat 5 Feb 2022 · Day 99
Hut · 23 km · km 2,086
Alpine Lodge Backpackers
Sun 6 Feb 2022 · Day 100
Backpackers · 25 km · km 2,111
Bridge Backpackers
Mon 7 Feb 2022 · Day 101 · Nelson
Transit · km 2,111 · 1 off-trail day
YHA Westport, TripInn
Wed 9 Feb 2022 · Day 102 · Westport
Transit · km 2,111 · 3 off-trail days · Resupply
Boyle River Outdoor Education Centre
Sun 13 Feb 2022 · Day 103
Transit · km 2,111
Hope Kiwi Lodge
Mon 14 Feb 2022 · Day 104
Hut · 26 km · km 2,137
Hurunui No3 Hut
Tue 15 Feb 2022 · Day 105
Hut · 27 km · km 2,164
Kiwi Hut
Wed 16 Feb 2022 · Day 106
Hut · 22 km · km 2,186
Upper Deception Hut
Thu 17 Feb 2022 · Day 107
Hut · 26 km · km 2,212
The Sanctuary
Fri 18 Feb 2022 · Day 108 · Authurs Pass
Dormitory · 11 km · km 2,223 · Resupply
Hamilton Hut
Sat 19 Feb 2022 · Day 109
Hut · 16 km · km 2,239
Harper Campsite
Sun 20 Feb 2022 · Day 110
Tent · 18 km · km 2,257
Methven Camping Ground
Mon 21 – Tue 22 Feb 2022 · Day 111–112 · Methven
Cabin · 28 km · km 2,285 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Double hut
Wed 23 Feb 2022 · Day 113
Hut · 31 km · km 2,316
Paddle Hill Creek camping
Thu 24 Feb 2022 · Day 114
Tent · 16 km · km 2,332
Rawhiti House - BBH
Fri 25 – Sat 26 Feb 2022 · Day 115–116 · Geraldine
Backpackers · 16 km · km 2,348 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Royal Hut
Sun 27 Feb 2022 · Day 117
Hut · 25 km · km 2,373
Freedom Camping
Mon 28 Feb 2022 · Day 118
Tent · 20 km · km 2,393
Highest Point
Tue 1 Mar 2022 · Day 119 · Tailor Made Tekapo Accommodation, Lake Tekapo
Dormitory · 29 km · km 2,422 · Resupply
Not Cycle Fit!
Wed 2 Mar 2022 · Day 120 · High Country Lodge and Backpackers, Twizel
Backpackers · 54 km · km 2,476 · Resupply
Ahuriri River Camping
Thu 3 Mar 2022 · Day 121
Tent · 58 km · km 2,534
Top Timaru Hut
Fri 4 Mar 2022 · Day 122
Hut · 24 km · km 2,558
Pukituhi Hut
Sat 5 Mar 2022 · Day 123
Hut · 25 km · km 2,583
Stu & Jo’s
Sun 6 Mar 2022 · Day 124
Other · 11 km · km 2,594
Wanaka Hotel
Mon 7 – Tue 8 Mar 2022 · Day 125–126 · Wanaka
Hotel/Motel · 24 km · km 2,618 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Fern Burn Hut
Wed 9 Mar 2022 · Day 127
Hut · 24 km · km 2,642
Roses Hut
Thu 10 Mar 2022 · Day 128
Hut · 17 km · km 2,659
Arrowtown Holiday Park
Fri 11 Mar 2022 · Day 129
Cabin · 22 km · km 2,681
Glenorchy
Sat 12 – Sun 13 Mar 2022 · Day 130–131 · Friend’s Place
Other · 30 km · km 2,711 · 1 rest day · Resupply
Greenstone Hut
Mon 14 Mar 2022 · Day 132
Hut · 13 km · km 2,724
Careys Hut
Tue 15 Mar 2022 · Day 133
Hut · 28 km · km 2,752
Kiwi Burn Hut
Wed 16 Mar 2022 · Day 134
Hut · 25 km · km 2,777
Te Anau Top 10 Holiday Park
Thu 17 Mar 2022 · Day 135 · Te Anau
Cabin · 29 km · km 2,806 · Resupply
Aparima Huts
Fri 18 Mar 2022 · Day 136
Hut · 22 km · km 2,828
Telford campsite
Sat 19 Mar 2022 · Day 137
Tent · 21 km · km 2,849
First Mouse
Sun 20 Mar 2022 · Day 138 · Birchwood Station, Birchwood
Hut · 28 km · km 2,877
Merriview Hut
Mon 21 Mar 2022 · Day 139 · Merriview
Hut · 26 km · km 2,903
Classic TA Hut
Tue 22 Mar 2022 · Day 140 · Martins Hut, Longwoods
Hut · 28 km · km 2,931
Hiker Fumes
Wed 23 Mar 2022 · Day 141 · Riverton Lodge Hotel, Riverton
Dormitory · 30 km · km 2,961 · Resupply
TA 🌈
Thu 24 Mar 2022 · Day 142 · Golden Leaf Apartments, Invercargill
Hotel/Motel · 32 km · km 2,993
Stirling Point
Fri 25 Mar 2022 · Day 143
Other · 33 km · km 3,026

Let’s Go!

First night

Best lunch spot ever

Treating myself already :)

Heaven’s opened

First Road Walk

Raetea Summit

Not the only one…

Like walking under a waterfall

First blisters!

Early return

Southern terminus

Camp Elsdon

Paekakariki Holiday Park

Ariki Lodge Motel

Wild

Lost!

Nichols Hut

Te Matawai Hut

Makahika Outdoor Pursuits Centre

Mangahao-Makahika Track

Tokomaru Shelter

Kahuterawa Reserve

Trail Angel Friends

Mt Lees Reserve.

Koitiata Campground

College House Accommodation

Forgotten World Adventures

Forest Lodge & Motels

42nd Traverse

Tongariro Holiday Park

Mangatepopo Hut

Chateau Tongariro Hotel

Mangahuia Campsite

YHA National Park

War Memorial

Whakahoro Camping Ground

John Coull Campsite

Tieke Kainga Campsite and Hut

Pipiriki Campground

The Flying Fox, Retreat

Whanganui River TOP 10 Holiday Park

Back Home!

Kerikeri Holiday Park & Motels

Pickled Parrot

“The Hangar” at The Farm

Alex and Dave’s Place

Whananaki Holiday Park And Motels

Tutukaka Coast Motor Lodge

Ocean Beach

Ruakaka Beach Holiday Park

Camp Waipu Cove

Riverside Holiday Park

Pakiri Beach Holiday Park

Dome Cafe

Puhoi

Stillwater - Fiona

Quest Hotel

Auckland Domestic Airport (& Home)

Zoe’s Place

Mercer Motel

Rangiriri - Cathie

Huntly - Lorayne & Gary

Hamilton City Holiday Park

The Backyard Gastropub

Kaniwhaniwha Campsite

Kaimango Road - Casey & John

Waitomo Top 10 Holiday Park

Motel Te Kuiti

Mangaokewa Shelter

Ngaherenga campsite

Camp Epic

Ongarue

Forgotten World Adventures Motel

Best Travel Buddy

Camp Bay Campsite

Cowshed Bay Camping Area

Davies Bay Campsite

Havelock Holiday Park

Pelorus Bridge - Totara Flats